Publié le 02/12/2015

Cruel gastronomy

Sometimes fine gastronomy can go overboard. It can even scare us away from reaching nirvana, freezing us with admiration. That is probably why other eateries are finding their own way, by clearing out this very brush.

Cruel gastronomy

Sometimes fine gastronomy can go overboard. It can even scare us away from reaching nirvana, freezing us with admiration. That is probably why other eateries are finding their own way, by clearing out this very brush.

HERE LIES ELEVEN MADISON PARK, the restaurant's name and address, in all its splendor beneath its towering, jaw-dropping ceiling. The restaurant is known all over the world for the high-minded cuisine on its spectacular tasting menu.

We can still recall the tartare of cooked carrots put through a meat grinder attached right to the table and cut with Long Island salt. Two years later, we recognize Daniel Humm's signature antics in cruel new creations like that slice of reconstituted tomato that tasted delectably like...a tomato.

BUT THIS CUISINE HAS COME TO TERMS WITH THE REALIZATION that foodies expect a little more craft and indulgence. Daniel Humm sort of plays down cooking by serving vegetables arranged on a plank of arty wood. He even hinted that we should eat with our hands.

“This soothing chef has understood what we expect when we sit down to eat. Indulgence and understanding.”

That is most likely what this soothing chef understood concerning what we expect when we sit down to eat. Indulgence and understanding. Calm and common sense. So we see diners smiling, emboldening themselves and finding that peace in time spent together. Truthfully, DH's food is excellent and it's excellent because it has the right attitude. It has everything...

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