Breathtakingly simple

Luxury is the kind of club whose members tend to look too much alike. Sometimes we want a new tune, a new chord. If you're looking for a form of countryside exoticism, look no further.

Breathtakingly simple

Black Forest cake "cut like a mountain chain" served at Dollenberg

Luxury is the kind of club whose members tend to look too much alike. Sometimes we want a new tune, a new chord. If you're looking for a form of countryside exoticism, look no further.

IT TAKES TIME. First, you follow a winding road through a black forest, breathing in the mountain air. At which point, you hit a clearing and reach a tranquil valley under a clear blue sky. And nestled in these mountains, like the backdrop of a musical, lays the breathtaking hotel that Meinrad Schmiederer has taken a generation to build.

     “A little slice of heaven totally devoid of frills and pretense.”

The hotel is massive; it takes up the entire skyline and claims the valley for its own. That is undoubtedly what immediately seduces its thrilled clientele. They usually come from Alsace to taste this little slice of heaven, totally devoid of frills and pretense.

THIS PLACE HAS A JOLLY LAID-BACK ATTITUDE – that almost-outdated pleasure you get from spending quality time together. The restaurant operated by Martin Hermann has that same energy. They cultivate hard work and a generous plate here. No allusions or measured portions. And they are not overly garrulous either about what to serve. The dish is decided when the time is right.

      “They are not overly garrulous either about what to serve.”

Think of the Black Forest cake that is served so cheerfully and generously. It won't be deconstructed or reinterpreted. It is what it is. Cut like a mountain chain, it sports the traditional red, black and white of the regional costume – layers of whipped cream, cocoa sponge cake, chocolate flakes and kirsch-soaked cherries.

The diners are also in that state of mind – cheerful, unhurried, helping themselves to a second slice of the landscape.

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